This ancient pilgrimage route, which dates to medieval times, draws people from all walks of life—theists, atheists and people of various cultures and religions. In 2023 alone, half a million people walked this path, each for their own reasons: reflection, health, grief, adventure, curiosity and more. 

 

Though the pilgrims are on different spiritual paths, there is unity on the Camino. Pilgrims cherish the rituals—nature walks, stopping at stunning views, passport stamping, and finally entering the Cathedral Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, where tradition holds that the remains of the apostle James are buried. (“Camino de Santiago” translates to The Way of Saint James.)

 

The Camino de Santiago pilgrimage is made up of several routes of differing lengths and can be as long as 825 kilometers (about 521 miles). 

 

In the summer of 2024, I walked a portion of it.

 

I was expecting nothing from this pilgrimage other than to walk the walk that millions have made. Along with 11 others, I began walking from Sarria, Spain, to Santiago de Compostela—a distance of 72 miles—on May 26. 

 

I had been invited by Dr. Lisa Thomas and Dr. Isaac Thomas of Cincinnati, with whom I had become close after officiating at her mother’s funeral during the COVID-19 pandemic. Learning of my love for hiking and biking, they asked if I would like to join them and nine of their friends on the pilgrimage. I eagerly agreed.

 

While most of us were strangers at the start, we all grew close by the end, shedding tears as we parted ways after an intimate and profound experience. Walking the Camino, I could not help but think of Jesus and his 12 disciples—talking, sharing, reflecting, and encountering people along the way. The Camino imparted valuable lessons about embracing the unknown and trusting in God's providence. 

 

Every pilgrimage comes with its challenges, and I was particularly nervous about this trip. Before leaving, I explained to one of my community members where everything was in the friary and what they should do in my absence. The friar asked me, “Why are you saying all this?” I replied, “This pilgrimage makes me really nervous after hearing some of the stories.” 

 

Despite God's favor gracing my journey, one must expect unpredictability on the pilgrimage, including varying weather, challenging terrain and scarce amenities. We endured blisters, aches and some hard nights, but the magic of the Camino inspired us to continue our journey.

 

We began preparing a year in advance so we could embrace the unknown during the trip. We watched the 2010 movie The Way, in which Martin Sheen plays an American doctor who comes to France to collect the body of his adult son, who died while walking the Camino de Santiago. The doctor then decides to make the pilgrimage himself.

 

In Zoom meetings, we discussed what to pack, how to pack, and what kind of shoes we would need. Preparing our feet was crucial, so I walked 5 miles daily to get ready. On the Camino, we spent more than a week walking about 30 kilometers (18 miles) each day. This meant that most of our time was spent walking rather than at the final destination, allowing us to meditate on the handiwork of God. 

 

My all-time favorite novel is The Alchemist by Portuguese author Paulo Coelho. This mystical story, about a shepherd boy who journeys in search of worldly treasures and finds much more, introduced me to the idea of pilgrimages and the search for truth. The novel emphasizes the importance of asking ultimate questions. We asked many questions along our own journey and engaged in several philosophical discussions. We had no answers to some questions, but we pondered what life would be like if we did know all the answers.

 

The Camino has become a sacred place for many to share stories, and I took several memorable stories home with me. 

 

One unfolded while I was conversing with two Irish siblings, one of whom had left the church because of a pastor's unkindness during her divorce. She asked if I went to church. When she learned I was a Franciscan priest, she apologized for speaking ill of the church. I asked her forgiveness on behalf of the church, gave her a rosary, and prayed over her. Perhaps this journey was her path to forgiving the church. As we parted, I wished them Buen Camino, which means "good road."

 

Pilgrims often encounter each other repeatedly along the path until they reach their destination. As I relaxed in a coffee shop later that day, someone offered me ice cream. It was the Irish pilgrim with whom I had spoken earlier! 

 

 

Though the pilgrimage begins at your doorstep, the Camino has an ultimate goal: Santiago de Compostela and the Cathedral of St. James, where pilgrims can visit St. James' tomb in a crypt beneath the main altar. The history of the Cathedral dates to the early 9th century, when the remains of St. James were discovered, leading to the construction of a small church. Today, the Cathedral showcases magnificent architecture and religious art. 

 

This sacred site marks the culmination of a transformative journey and embodies centuries of faith, devotion and historical significance, reflecting the enduring legacy of the Camino de Santiago. When our trip ended on May 30, I was blessed to celebrate Mass at the Cathedral. While seated on the altar, I thought of the kings, popes, bishops and saints, as well as the famous people and the poor, who had also sat in this sacred space. I experienced deep and enduring gratitude.

 

Everyone's face was joyful when we received the certificate of completion after showing our Camino passport to the front desk. This final ritual of the pilgrimage made us forget about our blisters and aches. We heard from several groups we met along the way that some of their members could not complete the pilgrimage due to illness, blisters, or swollen ankles that happened on the Camino. We could not have completed the journey without God's providence.

 

We spent the last night in the Major Seminary next to the Cathedral, which has prepared many bishops and priests—another favor from God. The 12 of us could not have completed the pilgrimage without helping each other as well, including my friends who had sponsored my trip. Whether by waiting for each other, sharing snacks, or offering shoulders to lean on, each of them touched my life. By the end of the journey, I heard them say, “Next time we take a trip, make sure Fr. John is with us.” 

 

While the physical pilgrimage has ended, the lessons I learned on the Camino de Santiago will continue to shape my life and the lives of everyone in my group.